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TUSCANY: Maremma’s La Bussatina Winery

Mar 24th, 2011 | By | Category: Italian Food and Wine

The Tuscan Maremma runs in a broad swathe south of Pisa, and includes the provincial capital, Grosseto.  It takes in both the coastal strip and the inland zone which runs into the foothills of the Apennines.

La Bussatina is highly individual, biodynamic winery is to be found a few kilometres north west of Sovana at San Martino sul Fiora. where  Emilio Falcione runs a small winery at 500 metres above sea level, keeps wild breeds and makes super low intervention wines at La Bussatina. Unlike the surrounding tufa and clay, his soil has much more sand and his 30 year old vines give softness to the fruit. The wines are sold in local restaurants

Every bottle is marginally different explains Emilio and that he prefers authenticity to uniformity. His white, San Martino 210 is 75% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia and 5% Ansonica, a very traditional blend. As the wine opens up in the glass it shows powerful mineral notes, a certain waxiness on the palate, very rounded and full.  Two vintages of Terre Eteree 2005 (85% Sangiovese, 15% Ciliegiolo, matured for 6 months in barriques and 6 months in the bottle) have a wonderful bouquet and full of fruit; 2004, for most a better year, was more acidic but had good fruit and persistence.

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